Meeting the challenge
Reproduced from Issue 109 of Arthritis Today
arc's Jane Tadman and Petra Goldsmith meet up in Kathmandu
The Arthritis Research Campaign's Himalayan Challenge 2000 is expected to raise £95,000. Arthritis Today editor Jane Tadman was among those who survived torrential monsoons and scorching temperatures to walk 80 miles at high altitude in Nepal. Not to mention leeches – and the dreaded toilet tent.
Day One-Two, London-Kathmandu
Our group of 32 is assembled in the Hotel Narayani in Kathmandu, a plush establishment by Nepalese standards. We are being told by Jeff, our larger-than-life western trek leader, that the key to our success on the trek boils down to three things; pacing ourselves, communicating, and drinking at least two litres of water a day. "Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photographs," he tells us. We are dazed and tired, having spent 13 hours on an overnight flight to Nepal. But we've been training for this for a long time. We're up for it.
Day Three, Kathmandu
An extraordinary day of sights, sounds and smells. Kathmandu's hot, busy streets teem with life. Crazy drivers lurch along the crowded streets avoiding stationary cows – animals sacred to the Nepalese – in the middle of the road. We are given a guided tour of two of the most special sites in Kathmandu; Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple, perched high on a hill above the sprawling city; and Pashupatinath, a place special to Hindus, and where we watch, rather uncomfortably, as bodies are cremated on funeral pyres and their ashes thrown into the river – where a few yards away, local people are washing. That evening we visit one of Kathmandu's most upmarket restaurants. There's music and dancing and it's wonderful. But at £10 a head it's purely a tourist venue; average annual Nepalese wages are around £75.
Day Four, Sunderijal to Chisopani
A short bus ride takes us to the start of the trek, and under blistering sun of 35 degrees, we start the long, slow ascent of 2,600 feet and ten miles up rough tracks and rocky paths. Six hours later we arrive at camp, which has been erected by a team of 60 sherpas, porters and kitchen staff. As we eat our first meal under canvass in the mess tent, a violent storm erupts outside. All we can do is race back to our tents and get into sleeping bags which remain damp for the rest of the trek. I remember why I hate camping.
Day Five, Chisopani to Kutumsang
The daily routine unfolds: awoken at 5.30am by the ever-cheerful sherpas calling: "Good morning, tea!" They bring us bowls of water to wash in, and prepare breakfast as we hurriedly pack our bags. Miraculously, tents packed, the porters, most of whom wear only flip flops, race ahead, baskets and panniers on their heads. They even find the energy to sing. Our sirdar (trek leader) is the formidable Captain Tek Limbu, a former quartermaster in the Gurkhas, who becomes the object of hero worship for most of the female members of the party. He leads, a slow bit steady pace; we fall in behind. Already a couple of trekkers are pretty ill with diarrhoea and vomiting. It's not much fun for them, but as we watch the sun set over the mountains, I remember why I like camping.
Day Six, Kutumsang to Tharepati
In the night I get to know the toilet tent better than I would like to. However, there's no going back now, so feeling wobbly and weak, I drag myself 13 miles up 4,000 feet to the highest point of the trek – 3,500 metres. At least it's cooler because it's overcast. The views are staggering. The Nepalis grow potatoes and corn on narrow, stepped terraces of land which forms the main feature of the landscape. Everyone is so friendly as we pass through their villages and homesteads. Small children and young mothers greet us. "Namaste!" They don't have many material possessions, yet they seem content with what they have. Very cold at camp. All the layers are piled on. I think of Scott of the Antarctic, and grit my teeth.
Down to Melamchigaon
Day Seven, Therapati to Tarke Gyang
A long, downhill slog – thank God for walking poles – through a lovely dappled forest to the prosperous Sherpa village of Melamchigaon on a sunlit plateau. It's Buddhas's birthday so as we pass the temple, or stupa, many flags are fluttering. It's the highlight of the trip for many of us, as Community Action Nepal (a charitable offshoot of STC) is building a school here. The headmaster, Purna, and his pupils greet us warmly, and show us the progress that has been made. The children are genuinely delighted with the cheap exercise books and pens we have brought. The village elders present us with traditional white scarves, and offer the local gut rot, chang. Off again; after descending 4,000 feet, we ascend another 4,000 feet – the equivalent of Ben Nevis to reach camp after eight-hours. At last, I see a snow-capped peak towering above us through the low cloud.
Day Eight, Tarke-Gyang to Kakani
Most of us have got used to having bad stomachs or having our ankles sucked by leeches but we haven't showered for several days and are looking rather wild. It's surprising how you get used to being dirty. We have a ten-mile ramble over reasonably flat ground, and, for once, arrive in time for a beer, and, oh joy, the chance to wash our hair under a cold tap. A special night; the last on trek. For once, there's meat on the menu – chicken. We know it's fresh because earlier we saw its neck being wrung. After dinner in the mess tent, the sherpas play music, dance, and invite us to join them under the stars. It's lovely, and we all get rather maudlin.
Day Nine, Kakani to Melamchipul Bazaar
Three hours of downhill walking and then it's over. We've done it! The buses take us back through the rural poverty of the lush green countryside, and urban poverty of the hinterlands of Kathmandu. Just time for a heavenly shower then we get a taxi to Dhurbar Square to buy presents and get a final glimpse of this amazing city. A gala dinner in the hotel garden and soon time for our 5am wake up call and onto the early flight back home.
The highlights? Undoubtedly the sherpas, who carried huge loads that put us to shame, could not have been more friendly and helpful, and whose constant repetition of a Nepalese folksong, Ressem piri rie will stay in my head for years; the Nepalese landscape; the sense of experiencing a culture so poor in so many ways, but so rich in others. It was tough, it was gruelling but we made it, and many of us will probably be going back. And the downside? A clue; it's two words and they both begin with a "t"….
- The arc Himalayan Challenge was organised in conjunction with Specialist Trekking Co-Operative. More details about STC and Community Action Nepal can be obtained on 01228 562358
